Thursday, May 7, 2009
Cádiz... during the day
RIP our toilet
Ok, I know this is quite an interjection with my other posts, but I just have to share this experience that is so annoying. So last Wednesday during feria, I came home and Maria was telling me how just had just mopped up the whole bathroom because the water tank of the toilet had pretty much exploded (i didn't even know that could happen). So... ok... broken toilet... can't flush. It's the only toilet in the apartment. It still isn't fixed and it is currently day 8. They have had to wait so long because of the holiday and because their toilet is the strangest blue color ever and they need it to match. Not ok. I have to fill up multiple buckets of water to manually flush. The toilets in Morocco were better... they were just a hole.
Feria de Abril
Finally I am only 1 week behind! ha. It is kind of hard to put time aside to blog when I have so much to do in the few days that I have left here in Sevilla. But I will gladly write about Feria, because it was probably my favorite time in Sevilla all semester. Originally I was planning on traveling during feria, but my plans fell through and it was definitely a blessing in disguise! Feria de Abril, or the Seville spring fair, happens every year 2 weeks after the Easter holy week. It is basically this huge festival where everyone drinks, eats, dances, and gets dressed up in the traditional flamenco clothing. There are hundreds and hundreds of casetas, or tents where families and friends get together the whole week. There are a few public tents, but most of them are private and require that you come with someone that has paid to be a part of the tent. These casetas are ridiculous!! They are completely furnished with tables, stages, bars, and bathrooms. Some of the ones I saw even had chandeliers! Also, one of the main attractions about feria is all of the horse carriages and caballeros riding on their horses through the streets of the city and at the fairgrounds.
One part of the grounds is called the "calle del infierno" or hell street, where there are a ton of vendors, rides, and other kinds of entertainment.
The traditional drink of feria is called a rebujito, which is a combination of sprite and sherry from Jerez called Manzanilla. I think the wine by itself is way too strong, but when it is mixed it tastes delicious :)
I consider myself really lucky, because Maria and Antonio had their own caseta, which they invited me and my friends to. (a lot of families don't have casetas since they are so expensive). They had a live band every night and some of the other people in the tent tried to teach me how to dance sevillano flamenco (somewhat unsuccessfully). Antonio told the singer to do a special shout out to Jillian and I, and it completely caught me off guard and everyone was clapping and telling us to go dance... so awkward! but funny at the same time, so we just went along with it. It was so much fun! We also had fun with getting dressed up and buying flowers for our hair, huge earrings, and a little shawl that all the women there have. (pictures to come). After the tent kind of died down every night, we would go to the rides. It was hilarious and I felt like such a small kid, but it was the part I looked forward to most. ha. Our favorite ride was the huge viking ship... if you jumped when it was at its highest point, you felt weightless for a couple seconds. Of course I tried out quite a few other rides too, but that was the bestThe ferris wheel was cool too (faster than most ferris wheels), but we also got a great view of everything from above. . In general it was just so interesting people watching at feria. The women get so dressed up and have so many matching accessories it's ridiculous. Some of the dresses are beautiful, but half of them are way tacky and I couldn't take them seriously. They also all wear flowers on the top of their head, sticking straight up, which I still think looks so funny. Maria actually dressed Jillian and I up in a couple of her old flamenco dresses and told us we could wear them out... but one of them had the pattern of a couch in a nursing home and the other had sleeves that were so big they looked like wings that we decided against that. They also had the most amazing waffles (gofres) I've ever tasted (me and my sweet tooth). I never wanted feria to end! Feria unfortunately had to end last sunday evening at midnight, when they shot off hundreds of fireworks over the Guadalquivir river. I was standing on the next bridge from where they were shooting them off so I got a great view, and it was so pretty to see them reflecting in the water. I feel so bad for people that were traveling all week... they have no idea what they missed!
The entrance to feria!
Some women wearing the flamenco dresses
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
MOROCCO (April 17-20)

Now I can actually say I’ve been to Africa! I was lucky enough to get the chance to go to Morocco on a trip organized by my CIEE human rights interest group. As with all traveling, we had to be up bright and early on Friday morning to start the bus ride to Tarifa, Spain and then take the ferry across the Mediterranean Sea to Tangier, Morocco. There were about 30 people total on the trip, but we divided into 3 smaller groups once we got there to make traveling in Morocco a lot easier. In what seemed like an instant, the world around me had changed completely. Different people, different clothes, different language, different architecture, different smell... i could already tell I was going to love it within those first few seconds! We met our group leader Darren, a Californian guy working for the Moroccan Exchange program. He is probably one of the most interesting, educated and nicest person I have ever met! He greeted us with a big back full of nuts and tons of chocolate bars... ha. Obviously we were going to be friends.
Alright so we went to Tangier as our first stop to walk around the city a little, go to the fresh market, and then to visit a women's center called DARNA. There we talked with students about the role of women in an Islamic society and how things were changing (while eating the best pastries and moroccan sweet tea).
When we were done in Asilah, we continued to our more permanent destination, Rabat, where we stayed for 2 days and lived with a Moroccan host family! Although they only spoke Arabic and French, (we had an arabic language session 101 , but you can only get so far with hello, my name is..., and thank you) ha, I felt so comfortable and welcome at their home. I stayed there with Franny and they showed us to a room, completely filled with couches and giant rug and said we could stay there. I really did feel like i was in a genie bottle :) To get to the eating area we had to climb up this almost ladder and walk across the roof to another room. All meals in morocco are eaten from a common dish in the middle of the table, which was a new experience. You just have to be careful that you don't take food from someone else's make believe food triangle. ha. The family was a mom and dad, with their 3 kids, 21 yr old girl, 18 yr old boy, and another 8 yr old girl. They were all so funny!
The next day in Rabat, we did a little sight-seeing to the Roman ruins of Chellah and to see the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V. At the ruins, there were literally hundreds of storks and egrets surrounding the place in their nests and in the trees. All of the paths were surrounded by so many cool plants and flowers, that I actually felt like I was in a tropical place.
So after returning to our families for lunch, our whole group met up with Moroccan university students and were taken on a little personal tour of the city and especially the giant marketplace in Rabat. I had thousands of things to look at in the marketplace and couldn't focus on anything... i just knew that I wanted to buy everything! They were selling everything from shoes to blankets, to olives and turtles. It was quite overwhelming (I need to go back again!) Then the students we were with, Karim and Adil, took us to this little bar/pool hall to get some tea. It was kind of awkward being in a bar because 1- they don't really drink in morocco and 2- you don't really see that many girls out in places like that there. But it was still fun.
Later that night we had a guest speaker from a memeber of the Peace Corps to share her experience. (She was not very interesting and also not very convincing) But after that... I went to my first public bath! Ha. All the girls in my group were really nervous about what it was going to be like, but everyone in Morocco was telling us how much they loved the Hammam (that's what public baths are called there), so we finally all decided to check it out. Darren's host sister, Widad, took us all down the street to go (she was so excited!) ha. Basically you walk in, change out of your clothes, (we had to bring washcloths and soap and stuff), then you walk into this sauna like tile room where the women there give you a ton of buckets filled with hot water. and then basically you just relax and clean. ha. Some people paid to get scrubbed down, but it looked kind of painful... so I voted against that. We went back to our family and were so relaxed and tired that we basically just ate dinner and then passed out in our beds.
We had to wake up really early the next morning to drive through the Rif mountains to our final stop in Morocco, the city of Chefchaouen. Saying good bye to our family was really sad, even though we had only been with them for only 2 days, I knew I was going to miss them. The ride was quite bumpy and curvy, and our bus driver was a little crazy. He had an obsession with passing cars and sometimes around the curves I thought I was going to die! Also our bus driver had "pimped out" our little bus the previous day. We had kind of complained how there was no music, so Darren was just going to bring his little ipod speakers, but when the bus came back, he had installed a complete stereo system and a dvd player for the trip. ha. We were trying to get lunch in this little rural village along the way, but got a little lost (after asking a ton of people though we finally found it). There we had some lunch and little discussion about the growing ecotourism industry that was developing in the area, where they invite people to stay in their village and offer outdoor activities, such as hiking in the area. The guy told us that ecotourism is their alternative to growing marijuana (it's more profitable ha). He took us on a little hike, even though it was really muddy, and when we got to the top of the hill it was such a pretty view of the valley.
Then we were off to Chefchaoen, a city founded by Moorish exiles from Spain during the Spanish Reconquista of the 15th century. "Chef Chaouen" literally means "look at the horns," referring to the shape of the mountains that tower over the town. One of the most noticable things is that every building in the city is some sort of shade of blue, which was a tradition from the former Jewish population. We got there kind of late in the afternoon, and once we checked into our hotel, only had a couple hours to do shopping before dinner. Like I said before, I wanted to buy so many things (a hookah being on the top of my list), and 2 hours was definitely not enough time! Especially with bartering with the shopkeepers, you need way more time to get the prices down. I had time to buy a few things I liked; I didn't want to stray too far from where we were meeting from dinner though, since it had gotten dark and I didn't really know my way around the town. We had dinner quite late and then went back to the hotel for a little debrief session, since it was our last night together. Our whole group talked about the highlights of our trip and what we learned (we all agreed how amazing everything was). Then Darren gave us all Moroccan bracelets, a desert rose from the Sahara, and this little perfume block that is very typical of Morocco. We had all (group 1) gotten so close to in the past couple days, that it was actually really sad to think that we would be going home the next day to return to Sevilla.
Before driving to the Moroccan-Spanish border the next day, we took a little farewell hike to the top of one of the closest mountains to get a view of all of Chefchaouen. We were all so tired since we had to wake up at 6:30, but everyone still enjoyed it (plus they brought us amazing breakfast!) Soon after we were on the bus again, sadly. I did not want to leave at all!! We got to the border, which was actually really scary with a ton of patrol and barbed wire and people waiting. Darren warned us not to take pictures because if the police saw us they would destroy our cameras (really intense!). We got there a little early and had to wait for the next ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar. We had to say our final goodbyes, and as sad as this is, I started tearing up when I had to say bye to Darren... he was really the best guide ever! He had taught us so much about Morocco and Islamic culture and I really learned so much by experiencing everything first hand. Then finally we boarded the ferry and were off to Spain again!
Morocco was hands down my favorite travel destination this semester!
Travel turns all the fairy tales and stories into reality.
More pictures...
Tangier, Asilah, & Rabat
More Rabat & Chefchaouen
Semana Santa (Holy Week in Sevilla)
Pure craziness… definitely a once in a lifetime experience to say the least. With the amount of preparation that I saw going on in the city, I could tell that it is the city’s most important tradition. The city started building up all sorts of stands and taking down anything that was in its way weeks before Semana Santa. I would have to go on new little detours every day to class due to “temporary construction.” Once I saw that them removing city bike stations and shutting down street car tracks, I knew it was serious. I’m actually overwhelmed in trying to explain it, because even after I saw it I still didn’t quite understand what was happening. ha. The entire week, before and up until Easter, there are processions with these floats of lifelike wooden sculptures of scenes of the events of the Passion or images of the Virgin Mary, called pasos. Basically every church in Sevilla and its brotherhood organizes one of these processions and they march through the streets. The pasos can weigh up to a metric ton and they are carried around by 20-40 men (often barefoot) for anywhere from 4-14 hours long! The ones that aren’t carrying the paso are dressed up in the traditional robe and hood, which look really close to members of the KKK and are called nazarenos. It was really weird at first to see the intensity of the processions and how many people participate, but it was really impressive and the pasos really are beautiful. I had no idea what to expect prior to experiencing it and I really learned a lot (More info here)
I was only in Sevilla for 2 days of the week (which was enough) due to traveling. The city literally shuts down. No
Also, the women wear this traditional dress all week, (a special comb, a veil, and all black) and Maria decided to dress me up in it. Hahah.. i still can't stop laughing...
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Lagos, Portugal (April 10-12)
If you ever get the chance to go to Lagos… GO! It is so amazing! It was really windy and a little overcast the first day but the whole weekend we had amazing weather. The water is crystal clear and the cliffs are so pretty. It was the perfect place to just relax, lay in the sun, look at the beautiful landscape, and of course… people watch too. The agency that we went through had to put us in a 4 star hotel, Aqualuz, (how unfortunate, right? Ha) because the one they booked was still being renovated. We had our own little apartment with kitchen and it was so close to the beach. Plus they had an amazing breakfast buffet. I roomed with Franny and Jessica and we were like little kids on Christmas at the hotel. We were so excited to cook our own food and buy our on groceries, since that is something we all miss about home (and can’t do at our Spanish homestays).
A bunch of the girls on the trip and I went on a little sailboat cruise to go out on the water and see some of the caves along the coast. They took us out on a little speedboat to go in and out of the little grottos and I was obsessed with it. Everyone was freaking out because our driver was going kind of fast and doing all of these tight turns, but I was having the time of my life. Ha.

Saturday, May 2, 2009
Florence
1. Gelato!!! The most beautiful and delicious ice-cream I have ever seen/eaten. They really make it a work of art
2. Duomo of Florence (Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore)- This cathedral was really different than any other cathedral I’ve ever seen. The outside had all these marble panels in various shades of green and pink bordered by white. The inside had a very simple gothic architectural style. It is also the largest brick dome ever constructed. The line to go to the top of the dome was unfortunately waaayy to long.
3. Palazzo Pitti- The Pitti Palace is basically this giant palace with a collection of treasures, like jewelry, paintings, and decorative plates. There was this really interesting collection that walked you through the evolution of clothing. With so many fashion designers coming from Italy, it was cool to see the clothes that they displayed.
4. Boboli Gardens- Right behind the palace there are these vast and beautifully landscaped gardens. Franny and I were exhausted so we actually took a little power nap lying in the shade under a tree. We could see all of Florence from the top of one of the gardens.
5. Ponte Vecchio- literally means old bridge in Italian. This bridge was built in 972 AD and has survived everything from floods and fires to bombings in WWII. The bridge is lined with one jewelry shop after another.
6. The leather market- shopping makes me happy… what can I say? Ha I was looking for a leather jacket but was unsuccessful. One of the shop owners proved how good the quality of his leather jackets were by holding a lighter to them to prove they don’t light on fire.
7. Our hostel, Archi Rossi- Everything you could possibly need was there. They had this cute little courtyard, nice rooms and lockers, free internet and breakfast and was in an amazing location.
8. Pizza and pasta… obviously amazing.
9. Seeing my friends from IU! Made the trip a lot more memorable and they were all great hosts and showed Franny and I a good time in the city.
Everything was amazing in Florence until... We MISSED our flight home!! :( I was in shock when Franny woke me up and told me what time it was and then we realized that both of our phones had died. There was no way we were going to make it to the airport on time. I wish I had a map where I could trace our route of travel… it ended up being ridiculous! So we had to take the train from Florence to Pisa, which was the airport we were flying out of… Turns out there were no more flights to Sevilla so we decided to switch our flight to go to Barcelona to at least be in Spain. Unfortunately we had booked our flight with Ryanair, which is the shittiest airline in the world, no exaggeration. We had to wait all morning in the Pisa airport for our new flight that afternoon. So then their airport is over 1 hour outside of Barcelona in Girona and we had to take a bus into downtown Barcelona. Oh yeah… best part… it was pouring rain in Barcelona. Then we took a metro from the bus station to the main train station, only to find that the train to Sevilla was sold out. Since when do trains get sold out?!? So the guy at the ticket counter said that the best would be to take an overnight train to Córdoba. I had my first train hotel experience and slept in a little bed on the train. Once we got to Córdoba we immediately caught a train to Sevilla, then had to take a bus from the train station to our apartments. After over 24 hours of straight traveling and an empty wallet, we finally made it! ha I think I purchased a ticket for every form of public transportation except for boat… not kidding. It was an interesting adventure home to say the least, and I will never miss another flight in my life!
PS. Also…whoever told me that Italian is so close to Spanish and we would have no problems understanding it… they lied. Two completely differently spoken languages.
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